Advances in knitting technology

Knitted textiles and apparel represent approximately one third of the global textile market. This book provides an updated reference to Knitting technology, with specific focus on the developments in knitted fabric production and textile applications.

The first set of chapters begin with a brief review of the fundamental principles of knitting, including the types and suitability of yarns for knitting as well as the properties achieved through knitted fabrics. The second part of the book examines the major advances in knitting, such as intelligent yarn delivery systems in weft knitting, knitted fabric composites and advances in circular knitting. The concluding section of the book presents a selection of case studies where advanced knitted products are used. Topics range from knitted structures for moisture management to weft knitted structures for sound absorption.

With its distinguished editor and array of international contributors, Advances in knitting technology is an important text for designers, engineers and technicians involved in the manufacture and use of knitted textiles and garments. It will also be relevant for academics and students.

Author Notes

Dr Kin-Fan Au is an Associate Professor at The Hong Kong Polytechnic University. He is a Fellow of The Textile Institute. Dr Au has provided consultancy services to the textile industry on projects related to knitting defects and production problems.

Contributor contact details	p. xi
Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles	p. xiii
Part I Introduction: fundamentals of knitting	p. 1
1 Types and suitability of yarns for knitting E. Mielicka, Textile Research Institute, Poland	p. 3
1.1 Introduction	p. 3
1.2 Types of packages	p. 7
1.3 Structure of cope	p. 10
1.4 Knitting yarns defects	p. 13
1.5 Types of knitting yams: yarns made of natural fibers	p. 19
1.6 Types of knitting yarns: yarns made of synthetic fibers	p. 21
1.7 Types of knitting yarns: fancy threads	p. 26
1.8 Yarns made for special applications	p. 28
1.9 Methods of joining the polyurethane yams in composites	p. 32
1.10 Other yarns for special applications	p. 34
1.11 Future trends	p. 34
1.12 References	p. 35
2 The physical properties of weft knitted structures B. Cooke, Formerly Senior Lecturer in Knit Design (UMIST), University of Manchester, UK	p. 37
2.1 Introduction	p. 37
2.2 Stretch and recovery properties	p. 38
2.3 Recovery properties	p. 39
2.4 Dimensional stability	p. 40
2.5 Creasing	p. 41
2.6 Thickness and compression properties	p. 42
2.7 Air permeability	p. 43
2.8 Thermal properties	p. 43
2.9 Liquid transfer properties	p. 44
2.10 Comfort	p. 45
2.11 Pilling and abrasion	p. 45
2.12 Knitted fabrics with special properties	p. 46
2.13 Sources of further information and advice	p. 47
3 Modelling of knitting R. B. Ramgulam, Albany International, Bury, UK	p. 48
3.1 Introduction	p. 48
3.2 Knitted fabric geometry	p. 48
3.3 Mechanics of knitted fabric: 2D model	p. 51
3.4 Mechanics of plain-weft knitted fabrics: 3D model	p. 59
3.5 Knitted fabric mechanics: energy model	p. 66
3.6 Knitted fabric pressure on a surface	p. 72
3.7 Heat and water vapour diffusion in fabrics	p. 80
3.8 References	p. 83
3.9 Appendix: initial guess estimates	p. 84
Part II Advances in knitting	p. 87
4 Intelligent yarn delivery systems in weft knitting R. Kovar, Technical University of Liberec, Czech Republic	p. 89
4.1 Introduction	p. 89
4.2 Theory of yarn delivery	p. 90
4.3 Yarn storage and delivery systems on circular Knitting machines	p. 103
4.4 Yarn storage and delivery systems on flat Knitting machines	p. 107
4.5 Future trends	p. 109
4.6 Sources of further information and advice	p. 109
4.7 References	p. 109
5 Advances in warp knitted fabric production Bharat J. Gajjar, Warp Knits, Delaware, Usa	p. 110
5.1 Introduction	p. 110
5.2 Commercial warp knit machines	p. 113
5.3 Delaware stitch and modified Delaware stitch Tricot fabrics	p. 116
5.4 Tricot and Raschel containing spandex	p. 119
5.5 Key Raschel fabrics containing spandex	p. 120
5.6 Newly developed constructions with spandex	p. 124
5.7 Americana and modified Americana Tricots	p. 126
5.8 Surface interest fabrics	p. 130
5.9 Milanese fabrics	p. 132
5.10 Conclusion	p. 135
5.11 Sources of further information	p. 135
6 Weft-knitted structures for industrial applications M. De Araujo and R. Fangueiro, University of Minho, Portugal and H. Hu, Institute of Textiles and Clothing, Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong, China	p. 136
6.1 Introduction	p. 136
6.2 Current problems and limitations	p. 138
6.3 Knitting 3D structures using weft-knitting technology	p. 141
6.4 Directionally oriented structures (DOS) and combined DOS weft-knitted structures	p. 148
6.5 Weft-knitted multifunctional structures	p. 155
6.6 Simulating mechanical properties of weft-knitted Structures	p. 157
6.7 Applications	p. 163
6.8 Future trends	p. 167
6.9 References	p. 168
7 Advances in circular knitting D. Semnani, Isfahan University of Technology, Iran	p. 171
7.1 Introduction	p. 171
7.2 Current problems and limitations of circular Knitted structures	p. 175
7.3 Recent advances in circular knitting	p. 177
7.4 Structure and properties of circular knitted fabrics	p. 182
7.5 Applications	p. 184
7.6 Future trends: smart garments	p. 189
7.7 References	p. 190
8 Knitted fabric composites M. Duhovic and D. Bhattacharyya, University of Auckland, New Zealand	p. 193
8.1 Introduction	p. 193
8.2 Types of fibre and yam used in knitted fabric Composites	p. 196
8.3 Composite performs	p. 198
8.4 Knit structures for fabric composites	p. 201
8.5 Types of matrix materials	p. 202
8.6 Developments in manufacturing methods for knitted fabric composites	p. 205
8.7 Mechanical properties	p. 207
8.8 Applications	p. 208
8.9 Conclusion	p. 209
8.10 Acknowledgements	p. 210
8.11 References	p. 210
9 Quality control in the knitting process and common knitting faults K. F. Au, Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong, China	p. 213
9.1 Importance of quality knitted fabric	p. 213
9.2 Knitted fabric quality	p. 214
9.3 Quality control in the knitting process	p. 215
9.4 Parameters of knitting control	p. 217
9.5 Relationship between yarn count and machine gauge	p. 220
9.6 Examples of quality control mechanisms for circular knitting	p. 220
9.7 Techniques to reduce knitting faults: online data monitoring system	p. 224
9.8 Knitted defects	p. 225
9.9 Conclusion	p. 231
9.10 References	p. 231
Part III Case studies: advanced knitted products	p. 233
10 Women's apparel: knitted underwear J. Kar, J. Fan, and W. Yu, Institute of Textiles and Clothing, Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong, China	p. 235
10.1 Introduction	p. 235
10.2 Functional requirements of knitted underwear	p. 235
10.3 Performance evaluation of knitted underwear	p. 239
10.4 Engineering of knitted underwear fabrics	p. 252
10.5 Recent developments in knitted underwear fabrics	p. 255
10.6 Properties of commercially knitted underwear fabrics	p. 256
10.7 Acknowledgements	p. 258
10.8 References	p. 258
11 Knitted structures for sound absorption R. M. Monaragala, Ministry of Defence, Sri Lanka	p. 262
11.1 Introduction	p. 262
11.2 Acoustic textiles in vehicles	p. 262
11.3 Sound absorption of plain knitted structures	p. 263
11.4 Engineering advanced knitted fabrics for sound absorption	p. 275
11.5 Thick spacer structures	p. 275
11.6 Dense spacer structures	p. 280
11.7 Conclusion	p. 283
11.8 Future trends	p. 284
11.9 Sources of further information and advice	p. 284
11.10 References	p. 285
12 Weft-knitted structures for moisture management G. B. Delkumburewatte, Open University of Sri Lanka, Sri Lanka	p. 287
12.1 Introduction	p. 287
12.2 Basics of wetting	p. 288
12.3 Wicking and absorption	p. 291
12.4 Experimental liquid take-up	p. 298
12.5 Future trends	p. 306
12.6 Sources of further information and advice	p. 306
12.7 References	p. 307
Index	p. 309

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